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Peak Mountain 3

Conn Route

FA Herb and Jan Conn, June 1949
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

This climb starts at the high point between Aquarium rock and Icehouse rock. This is easily reached by scrambling up some boulders on the southwest side of Aquarium rock.

Pitch 1: Climb a right leaning crack/flake to an obvious large ledge on the south side.

Pitch 2: Make a move up, then traverse right to reach a low angle chimney. If you're squeamish, this traverse can be protected by a .3 cam. When you get to the chimney, climb the face placing pro in the chimney when possible. Another ledge is reached at which a belay can be set if desired. Otherwise, traverse to the right again and head up when the climbing looks easy. This last section is runout but the climbing is very easy.

Descent: Walk East, crossing the pools, to the opposite side of the summit to reach an anchor with long chains (there is a second anchor 6 feet lower, if your rope is short). A single rope will just get you to the ground on the north side of the rock. On the ground walk a little East and tunnel under the large boulder blocking the gully between Aquarium Rock and Photographers' Peak.

Protection

Standard rack will do, thought you probably won't use much of it.