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Peak Mountain 3

Buckets of Blood

FA Dave Foerstel, Larry Deangelo
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UPDATED 

Description

The lower pitches are nothing special but the upper wall was quality all things considered. We climbed it in 6 pitches.

Lower wall: Best climbed in 3 pitches at about 90'-110'. There are two "tiers" of big ledges between lower/upper wall. I included scrambling up to the second tier in my last pitch(150').

Upper wall: We climbed this in 3 pitches: P4-Climb up directly under the big corner to a belay on a decent ledge at about 40'. 5.4 P5- Up through the corner. Plenty of big holds and continuous protection options up to the crux where I went up left on the face instead of slithering up the flare. 150' 5.6 P6- Continue up the crack and follow the corner left and top out. 60'. 5.5

I suspect that 2 60m pitches would be best for the upper wall.

Descent: We rappelled and scrambled down the gully between Mudterm area and here. Primitive how I like it. If I went back I would rap the entire route leaving only webbing behind. One could also descend as per other routes on formation, West gully.  Probably the easiest descent is to scramble east and go down a gully (class 2-3) that comes out near The Schoolyard.

Location

When facing Mudterm area this route is on the large formation a few hundred yards back and right.

Protection

Single rack to 3". No fixed gear.