- Edit (TBD)
Description
Another line between the lines. I saw this one on rappel when I went to rescue Mark's stuck cam off of Ann's Revenge, and was once again surprised to find that I'd discovered yet another climb that wasn't already done. It's mostly easy climbing before and after the roof, with a somewhat-funky 5.10 mantle to get onto the headwall. I had to clean a little dirt out of a few gear placements and a few flakes of lichen off of some critical holds, but it went pretty quickly without too much effort.
The Fall season this year has just kept on giving, and this was yet another really fun route to bring to fruition with great friends on a beautiful day. On the hike out we discussed various names, and this (from the famous tatoo meme) was the one that drew the most laughs so I chose it as such.
Location
In between Ann's Revenge and Nine Lives. Start on the first 10 feet or so of Ann's Revenge then take the obvious horizontal to the left. Go straight up through low angle seams to the roof, where an obvious jug will grant passage. Finish straight up.
Protection
Two cams of the BD .75 range would be good, as well as some stoppers and small cams. After the roof you'll either find a VERY creative BD .5 placement or run it out further towards the top.
Routes in Junkyard Wall
- 34No Ragrets5.10Trad