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Peak Mountain 3

Playing on Credit

FA DCuster et al
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Belay high in the gully slot near a tree.  Climb the crack, stemming in the gully at first.  Climb requires every size and you will encounter several brief cruxes, including one over very good 00 size cams.  Finish at the end of the varnish.  Rappel off in situ bail nuts.

The crack continues into the white rock, but the quality of stone diminishes instantly when the varnish ends.  Climb can be done in 1 pitch or 2, depending on available gear.  If done in 2 pitches, you could belay in the wide pod at 125'.

Location

The hike is a doozy.  This climb is not on the same feature as the other routes. Walk past Dirtbagger's Compensation, continuing along the wall (toward the crack with the fixed line at the base, if it's still there).  Identify the red ledge on the pink buttress perpendicular to the Dirtbagger's wall.  Head up the tree-choked gully to the point where the red ledge meets the gully.

Climb through the big tree and up onto the red ledge (5.0 moves but fairly safe).   Move across the red ledge and scramble down to the platform on the other side. Walk across the monster tree spanning the chasm. This brings you to the gully slot below the crack.

Protection

Triple 00-.5. Double to 3. Single 4.