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Peak Mountain 3

Original Route

FA Mike Baker solo, May 1992
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Pitch 1- Aid up through sections of rotten rock until the angle lessons and you can free climb. Build a gear anchor on a ledge at the base of the tower. (green alien to #1 seemed to fit.) 5.8, C2 175'

Pitch 2- Climb up from the belay on 5.8 passing a pin to a pin ladder. Belay at a 3 pin anchor on a small stance. 60'

Pitch 3-Climb the rotten crack directly above your belayer passing some suspect fixed gear along the way. Aid out an overhang and finish the pitch on a ledge with a two pin anchor. A2+ 110'

NOTE: Combine pitches 2 and 3 if you don't want to hit your belayer with rocks.

Pitch 4- Climb 5.8 up and right to a crack and then a ledge. Continue to the top at 5.9 passing a pin. Two pin anchor. 40'

Descent- Rappel from the summit to the top of pitch 3. Then down to a two pin anchor on slabs to the climbers right of the pitch 1 belay. Then to the ground.

Location

Start at the obvious crack on the prow below the tower facing the road.

Protection

Triples from Black alien to #1 Camalot, two #2 and #3, one new #4 Camalot. Alien Hybrids, HB Offsets, Tricams, selection of angles.


Routes in Frankenstein


  1. 1
    Original Route
    5.8
    Trad · Aid