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Peak Mountain 3

Court Jester

FA Todd Offenbacher, Neil Schnaible
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Situated in a cool nook just below a few giant boulders situated in a gully. You may have difficulty getting a dog up here just FYI, unless its small enough to carry.

Starts vertical on awesome jugs (5.6ish) then moving into fun lower angle climbing toward an obvious 5.8+ roof crux. What's not so obvious about the crux from the base of the climb is, well... you'll see when you get there. Let's just say you can follow the bolt line there and use the crimp, or traverse Right before the roof for easier footing.

The roof crux is so unique and different from the rest of the climb that it may be a surprise and a challenging puzzle for a beginner. The roof, and the whole climb for that matter is very well protected. Once past the roof, you'll find even steeper and deeper juggy holds!

This climb is fun, and nice and long! Generously bolted but still unique and challenging for a good beginner's lead. Finish at mussy hooks and MAKE SURE that you hang out and enjoy the view. On a clear day you can see the hills in Nevada, across Lake Tahoe, and everything in between. Killer view!

Lower off.

Location

First visible route on the East side of Armory Wall, tucked inside a gully below a giant chock stone (about the size of a VW Bug). Requires a bit of a scramble. From a distance you can recognize the 3' roof with light green coloration before you see the bolts on the wall.

Protection

13 bolts. Darn well protected. Mussy hooks at anchor.