South Ridge

The South Ridge of North Arapahoe Peak (13,502') is the most direct way to summit the highest peak in the Indian Peaks Wilderness. Roach calls this a classic, but in the conditions I did this traverse in, I had trouble even giving it one star.

The 0.6 mile traverse from South Arapahoe (13,397') in which you hardly gain or lose any elevation was loose, wet, and exposed at all the wrong times. Pulling an overhung 5.4 boulder problem off snow in mountain boots with a 1500' drop to the Arapahoe glacier below while wearing a pack full of ice gear is interesting, but there's better things to do. Same goes for jumping off a muddy ledge into a 4'x4' patch of snow with drops on both sides, and climbing a final sloppy snow gully with a long runout to the glacier. Don't get me wrong, there's lots of good climbing to be had, good scenery, and a cool 100' catwalk that has fantastic exposure. Just wait for the snow to melt before trying it.

To give the route a little more credit, on the return trip I found some better routes to bypass the snow gully and snow-platform jump and had a little more fun - a hint: don't follow the paint marks in the slot or the bit cairns leading east near the summit. Descend South Arapahoe via the southeast slopes to pick up the trail.

Some trad gear could be used if you need to pro parts of this traverse.