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Peak Mountain 3

[Redacted]

FA Doug Reed 1991
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

For being among the easiest of the routes at the glory hole, this rig presents quite the series of challenges. Start off by climbing on a less than ideal rock-quality face, making your way around the right side of a large projecting tooth. Hunker down in an awkward position right below the roof to get ready for the business. Reach up and grab hold of a large flake with sloping jugs. Work all the way out to the lip of the roof and make a big move out right to a slopey crimp. Most people use the patented feet-cutting bro-burl to hold the swing. The deft use of a heel-toe cam on the flake allows for matching of the crimp and eventual passage to the first headwall. Stay relaxed and rest up for the second crux on a jug sidepull. From here, make your way up to the second roof and pull it using pure dyno-burl or nasty good steeps technique. From here traverse left on jugs to finish up on the same anchors as Blood Raid.

Location

Right side of the glory hole- the right route of the three (LAB, Blood Raid, Skull Fuck) that go straight out the roof.

Protection

7 bolts, fixed draws, bolted anchor.