White Queen

This ultra-bouldery route is the hardest on the main ET cliff band, and 2nd hardest in the area, behind the classic Child of Light. The route begins in the dihedral on the right end of the Frog Prince wall at an orange bolt hanger. Easy (11+?) pockets head up to a point where the wall really steepens to near-horizontal. At this point, the crux begins with a powerful lock-off, to an undercling, to set up for the crux dyno to a 2 finger pocket over the lip. Apparently there are two potential sequences here, that involve dyno-ing with either the left or right hand (I went left). Above the lip, easy moves lead to the chains.

Variously sources over the years have described this route as up to 13c/d. There are also rumors that this route has been chipped since its first ascent. Perhaps the difficulty has changed over time, but as of the fall of 2003, this route was no harder than 13b. I've heard it described as V8, which might be appropriate from ground to chains, but the crux itself is likely no harder than V6. I would describe it as 12a to V6. In any case, this is 13b by NM standards, and all that that implies.

Far right end of 'steep' part of Frog Prince wall. Begins in the dihedral.

Bolts