Art Baker Memorial

Pitch 1 (160', 5.7): surmount the roof and head up a liebacky thing to a bolted anchor. Pro is a little sparse and there are some hollow-sounding flakes -- be careful.

Pitch 2 (100', 5.9): sustained right-leaning finger crack with great pro, to bolted anchor with rap rings. I have read that this pitch can be wet sometimes, but we did it during a prolonged dry spell.

Turn right at the bottom of the descent trail and traverse below the Hippo Wall (bolted slab routes). At the end of this slab will be a left-hand descent to routes such as the Tollhouse Traverse.

Instead, go straight and continue traversing along a climber's trail below the face, passing the Turret and Friday the 13th. The climber's trail should peter out at a tree, just below a roof. The route starts below the left side of the roof.

Descent options:

1. Rappel with either two 60m ropes or conceivably one 70m. The first rappel should get you to a bolted anchor with rings, which is a belay on

Leapin' Lichen

(5.10a R/X). Second rappel was ~120', so it might be a bit short with a 70m but

probably

doable.

2. Continue up some third-fourth class slab to Cap Rock, and either (a) climb Cuticle Corner (5.7), a short finger crack, to another bolted anchor, or (b) traverse right around the base of Cap Rock to where you can pick up a trail. Walk off after either option.

Set of nuts, cams from 0.5 to 2.5 inch, maybe some extras in finger sizes.