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Peak Mountain 3

Atheist's Anarchy

FA Grahm Doe and Leo Miner, Nov 2011
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Good climbing on this adventure from Grahm and Leo.  Some definite discrepancies, though, to be aware of.  The first is that the second pitch is well over 60m (about 62 for us). This necessitates some simul-climbing. Problem is the serious crux moves off the belay (we found them to be at least 9+ if not 5.10); a fall here for the follower could pull the leader off. (Our person seconding had to stand in slings off the anchor to allow enough rope; even then I had to pull all slack out of the rope to get enough to clip the anchor). A 70 meter rope would work well here.

The third pitch forced us to simul-climb 25 to 30 feet before the leader could reach the top anchor.  This pitch is a full 70 meters.

The first short pitch called 5.6 in the book we found (all 3 of us) to be AT LEAST 5.8 with no pro at the first hard move.

Location

2 routes right of Prime Rib.  Starts on the ground a (short) pitch below Prime Rib's start.

Protection

A piece or two for the first pitch. A medium stopper, small cams up to 1".  A few thin 2 foot slings for chickenheads.


Routes in Fallen Eagle Dome


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    Atheist's Anarchy
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