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Peak Mountain 3

Last Rites

FA F.A. Keith Egan, Mark Johnson (1981)
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

The route has two cruxes that stump most people (that I've climbed with). First is getting onto the steeply sloping ramp just after starting the climb. You basically have to slither yourself onto it until you grab a great hold, otherwise be spit off. The second crux is the mantel move off the horn that forms a small roof (that is protected by slinging the horn). Blow this mantel and find yourself falling backwards and knocking your head on the ramp below. The rest of the climb is strait forward consisting of moderate crack climbing with some lay-back moves and a short chimney section to top out. The route protects really well with the exception of the mantle move where you whish you could put a piece above you.

Location

Route is located Right and up hill of Blades of Steel on the ENE corner of Lost Dome. Double rappel with two 50 m ropes.

Protection

Cams, nuts, hexes, tri-cams, and a four foot sling to sling the horn. Sling the route well or face bad rope drag. Shares 2 bolt anchors with baptist on a rampage.