- Edit (TBD)
Description
This infrequently climbed but high quality route is worthy, and would likely see many more ascents if the approach wasn't such a pain.
P1: Start up a left leaning crack, climb or skirt around an offwidth pod, and belay at the tree at the base of the large dihedral. 5.9
P2: Sustained climbing up an excellent dihedral to a blocky ledge out right. Step right and belay at the base of the wide crack. Even if you've got plenty of rope and gear left, this is the best spot to belay for a while. 5.9
P3: Step back left and continue up the right facing dihedral, passing a chimney section, and belay somewhere comfortable. Variations exist. 5.9
P4: Keep going up the corner system, exit it via a cool steep corner section with a finger crack, and pick somewhere on ledgy terrain to belay. 5.9
Scramble: Scramble straight up to the summit block, and traverse right around to the north face of the summit block, where the bolt ladder becomes visible. Not the worst idea to stay roped up through this traverse.
P5: The infamous Beckey bolt ladder! Bust out your aiders, think light thoughts, and hope none of the manky old buttonheads rip on you. Small hook recommended so you can aid past an empty bolt hole if necessary. Once through the bolt ladder, mantle onto the arete, pack up your aiders, and steel yourself for some exposed free climbing past three ancient bolts to the summit. Falling not recommended. 5.9 A1++
Location
Approach Baron Lakes via Redfish TH or Grandjean TH.
Hike up ridge from Baron Lake outlet to the SE Face of the formation. The start of the route is obvious.
Descent: 70m rope recommended. Bring bail cord and take some old tat with you!
R1: Rap bolted anchor back to base of bolt ladder.
Reverse the scramble you did on the way up, and look for a fairly obvious slung block rappel station straight below the summit.
R2: Rap slung block straight into major gully. Look skier's right for a slung constriction.
R3: Rap down gully to a huge ledge. This was a rope stretcher on our 70m rope. This looks like it could be probably downclimbed.
Walk south on the large ledge, and look for a large slung block at the end of a wide crack.
R4: Rap off the slung block to an obvious ledge with a slung block.
R5: Rap off slung block to the ground.
Protection
Singles to #4, Doubles #0.4 to #2, and nuts was more than enough.
12+ draws for the bolt ladder pitch, a few screamers not the worst idea ever.
Aiders and ascenders.
70m rope works for descent.
Lots of webbing/cord to leave on descent.