- Edit (TBD)
Description
This is the Dome's historic ultraclassic. There is mandatory excitement around the roof on the 2nd pitch (as described here) - no way to dog this one. Start near the center of the face at an obvious, easy crack.
P1. Climb the crack (5.5, gear) to its top [optional belay], then friction up to join
Topographical Oceans
for the first three bolts of its second pitch (5.9). Veer left, then climb up and right to a belay at an arch, 230'.
P2. Climb right around the arch-roof (5.9) with courage, then follow a ramp up and left to a belay above the arch, 80'.
P3. Climb up past a bolt to an overlap, and turn it on the right (5.6) or left (5.9), and continue up left to a belay, 150'.
P4. Move left on a ramp to a wide-ish crack, climb it (5.8) to the easy summit slabs, 160'.
Downclimb to the east to descend.
Per
Cory N
: alternatively, head north into the second obvious gully that descends to the west. Spot a dead tree and some 4th Class downclimbing towards a cave like formation created by a few leaning boulders. If there is snow and ice on this, it will be quite adventurous. There is tat under the large boulder that cannot be seen until you go into the cave. This rappel is above "Cruiser" and is about 100'. Hike south following some cairns back to the base of the The Dome.
Protection
All bolts are new and bomber thanks to the ASCA, they are still few and far between. Supplement the the bolts with a single rack .4-2 and a set of nuts. A very large cam is optional for the easy terrain but probably not worth bringing it on the hike.
Routes in The Dome
- 13Bishop Jaggers5.9Trad