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MapDescription
Original route starts low, just below a 1.5 to 2" crack underneath a small roof. Put pro in here with a very short or no runner and move straight up to the fixed knifeblade. Stay low while clipping the knifeblade to help with groundfall potential. Move straight up into cruxy moves and then over left to the bolt. A few neat, juggy moves lead to a chain anchor from there. An easier variation follows the left arete.
Location
In the middle of the face on the backside of Pinky Pillar
Protection
Trad gear, one fixed pin, one bolt and a bolted anchor with chains.
Routes in 16. Pinky Pillar (backside)
- 2Escape From The Gumbies5.8Trad