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Peak Mountain 3

Swoop Gimp or Be Dust

FA Barry Ward, Alan Humphrey
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

P1

(5.6) Right-angling ramp to bolted anchor.

P2

(C3) Climb steep red wall, left of the alcove to a hanging belay.

P3

(5.9 C2+) Continue up crack (C2+) to a bolt ladder that moves up and right to some bad hooks and a mantle move (5.9) that leads to belay ledge and bolted anchor.

P4

(C3) Start with a right-facing/angling corner (C2) that ends at more bad hooks heading left to another right-facing corner. Climb the corner using blown out pin scars (C3) and then move back right to the belay ledge and bolted anchor.

P5

(5.9 C1) Starts off with more bad hooks that lead to a left-angling crack (C1). Past the crack is a chimney (5.9) that ends before a cool roof (C1). Belay at ledge with bolted anchor.

This is a big sandy ledge and a place to bivy.

P6

(C2+) Follow right-facing corner to a fun OW. Belay at the ledge with bolted anchor.

P7

(C2+) Leave the ledge using hooks (C2+) that lead to a crack (C1+) that goes to the big ledge with bolted anchor.

P8, P9

(4th class) Horrible hauling to the top.

Topo

Location

Located on a large buttress right of

Moonlight Buttress

, across the canyon from

Spaceshot

. Cross the Virgin River near

Space Shot

and head towards concave, pink face on the buttress.

Higher up the wall becomes a pillar with two dihedrals.

Protection

  • (4-5) sets of offset brassies

  • (3-4) sets of micro cams

  • (1-2) sets of nuts

  • (2) sets of Camalots #.5 - #3

  • (1) #4 Camalot

  • assorted hooks (Talon, Cliffhanger, etc...)