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Peak Mountain 3

The Great South Face Buttress of the Zig Zag Tower

FA Tristan Burnham and Tori Monteleone June 2014
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

This route was done ground up onsite with a hand drill since its a wilderness area. Start at the base and follow a mellow 5.5 zig zag crack up for about 40 feet up to a slab. Follow 3 bolts up the blank slab and top out on a big ledge on top of the tower with a bolted anchor. From the top of the tower clip the anchor as your first piece and make an airy traverse out right for about 10 feet until you reach a crack. Make sure you back clean the first 2 cams in the crack so your follower isn't looking at a bad swing. Follow the cracks up until you merge into the cave section of Fish Taco. Belay here or continue up over an easy boulder problem and along the 4th class summit ridge. Walk off from the top.

P1 - 5.10a

P2 - 5.7

P3 - 5.4

Location

This is the first route you get to after scrambling to the base of the crag. From the boulders at the saddle of east twin ridge head down the gully and then scramble up the drainage to the base of the crag and look for the slabby zig zag cracks. The route is about 30 ft to the left of Fish Taco.

Protection

Standard light rack. 3 bolts on the first pitch. 60m rope.


Routes in Swagrocrag


  1. 1
    The Great South Face Buttress of the Zig Zag Tower
    5.10a
    Alpine · Trad