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MapDescription
Climb up past the first bolt to 2 decent crimps then launch into a really fun roof section (5.12) through 3 bolts. Pull onto the head wall for some amazing 5.9 climbing past 3 more bolts to a chain anchor. I intended for the first permadraw to be stick clipped but I left a lower first bolt that might help if you’re working the lower section. This route stays in the shade until the evening and a cave to the left puts out some nice cool air, there is also a good swimming hole 30ft from the base! R.I.P. Tom Laughlin
Location
Just right of “Opium Den”
Protection
You’ll need 5 quick draws
Routes in Oriental Wall
- 4Billy Jack5.12Sport