Angel Duster (AKA Angel Dust Arete)

If you liked

Cig Arete

, this rig climbs like the shadier, uglier sister route.

Climb a beguiling finger splitter on the right side of the face, pass some big, lichen-covered jugs, and clip a bolt, aiming for the arete. Place some decent but tricky pro, and be ready to commit to moves with gear below your feet.

From here, clip bolts the rest of the way along the arete, with multiple 11- cruxes. There's one last spot where a small piece takes some stress out of a minor runout.

This has lots of lichen, since it faces north, but it's clean where you need it, and it's a great, sustained, arete climb.

11c is the published grade, but it's maybe a little soft, definitely easier than

Whiskey Dick

,

Rogue Repeater

, or

Speaking in Tongues

• which are more the typical Taylor sandbags.

It is on the far right side of the PCP Pinnacle North Face about 20' right of the obvious

Angel Dust

splitter.

Small gear to a #0.75 BD, maybe doubles in finger sizes, and 8 bolts.

A single, stretchy 70m lowered to the top of the 4th Class ramp at the base of

Angel Dust

. KNOT YOUR ROPE! You could also lower to the ledge out left, belay from there, and rap from those anchors with a 60m.