Narcolepsy Nightmare

This is a technical face climb and relatively sustained. The absolute crux is at the bulgy section about 20 feet below the first anchor.

The route is just left of the Lucid Fairyland variation.

Bolts to anchor and chains. There is a second set of bolted anchors about 12 feet directly above the first set. Climbing to these higher anchors adds a satisfying finish to the route. A bolted second pitch is of lower quality and rope drag can occur if some draws are not extended or back-cleaned. The last four bolts to the anchor (single rap ring) traverse sharply left and up along a small headwall. Once on top, the anchor will be directly above where you turned creating a zig-zag, more drag, and difficulty cleaning the draws on the way down. Rap down to the second set of anchors below. Rap a second time to the ground.