- Edit (TBD)
Description
This was one of the northern end's final "potential" lines listed in the last edition of Wenger's guide. The neighboring lines to the right and left had also been "potential" but were also plucked recently. In keeping with the area's tradition, this was led on-sight ground up. The bottom half of the pitch is great 5.9 hands and fingers to a small shelf on the column face to the left. From there, make progressively harder moves up the tightening fingercrack until it pinches down for a bit, forcing some creative stemming and crimping to a small upper shelf. Continue a short ways on good fingers to a set of anchors recently installed by Jeff Wenger. A great outing-harder than most of the north side climbs and pretty lichen-free.
Location
On the northern side of the crag. One corner left of a newer climb "Ol' Dirty Bastard" and one right of another new line "Buried Alive".
Protection
Cams through #2 BD with doubles of finger size, small stoppers for crux. Chain anchors.
Routes in The Northern End
- 14Desperado5.11-Trad