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Peak Mountain 3

Krakatoa

FA Dudley Chelton, Richard Smith, 1973
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

This is a long crack pitch on the left side of the

Hands of Destiny

area. It has some suspect and/or dirty rock, but otherwise it is very fun. If you like desert towers and that sort of thing, you'll enjoy this route.

Moderate climbing leads to a bulging, left-trending crack and flake system out of an alcove. (If you clip the bolt on the neighboring route before starting this section, use a long sling to reduce rope drag.) My PG-13 rating comes from the fact that you have to place gear behind some big blocks in this section. They seem solid, but you never know. When the angle eased, we stepped right, around a little prow, and face-climbed to the bolted anchor on the

Fifth World

. This was fun and added a brief second crux. P1 is 90'.

We did not do the 5.9 second pitch.

Protection

Finger- to hand-size nuts and cams. Doubles in the small to large hand size are nice.