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Peak Mountain 3

Henry VIII

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Description

Loose and fragile, should not be climbed when there are people freely roaming the base area.

Two things mitigate the dangerousness of this route:

  1. It goes diagonally left, so the belayer can be positioned out of the path of most rocks dislodged by the leader.

  2. The hardest part - first ~20' - is relatively solid.

Loose rock at the anchor - first person down should move away or hide under a roof before signaling "off rapppel", and the second person to rappel should avoid moving their feet until then.

I cannot in good conscience recommend this route - it is not the kind of route people come to Smith for - but I enjoyed the "crappy alpine rock" adventure in a low-commitment setting with bolt protection.

Location

Start in the shade behind a tree.

Protection

10-12 bolts

2-rope rappel (45m)


Routes in (3) London Tower


  1. 1
    Henry VIII
    5.8+
    Sport