Cenotaph Spire

Interesting route to a cool summit, but lots of bad rock limit the appeal.

P1: From the ramp on the Tombstone side of the spire, aid up an overhanging dihedral that apparently goes free at 5.10 - C1' for me. Walk along a third class ramp, and then enter a heinous bulging 5.8 squeeze chimney. This thing is not protectable for 20 feet or so without really wide gear of some kind - i left a tipped out 5 camalot at the start of the chimney, though it gets easier towards the top. Natural belay on a good rubble covered ledge above this. 80' 5.8R C1

P2: Climb up and then straight left with a little downclimbing to a bulging sandy crack. Pull one hard move and then easy to the anchor. Route finding is tricky and the rocks sucks on this pitch. I took a big fall getting off route going up too high too early - don't be suckered by the stopper I left to get off that part after the fall. 100' 5.8R

P3: Really cool pitch. Climb up to a 4 bolt ladder, and then left up 5.7 munge to the notch. Mantle onto the ledge and then aid up and right on bolts past an optional intermediate 2 bolt belay to a GORGEOUS splitter on the opposite face of the summit tower. Climb the incredible thin splitter on small aliens and tcus to a three bolt ladder and then a mantle to the summit. This pitch is three stars, and makes the first two pitches worth suffering through. The rope drag can be very bad - if you have any at all at the intermediate belay stop there or prepare to suffer on the topout mantle. 140' 5.7 C1

To descend, make a double rope rap to the top of the second pitch, and another straight to the ground. Bring webbing to replace the rap slings, and a register would be nice too.

10 rivet hangers or wired stoppers, 1 set of stoppers, 3 sets of cams from micro to 2", 2 sets 2-3", 1 set 3-12". Many 24-48" slings are very useful for reducing rope drag.