Naked Lunch

This is the longest route on the Titan and climbs its proudest aspect. It’s also a relatively clean route considering it has seen no attention.

Pitch 1 climb 80’ up the first pitch of Sun Devil Chimney C2

Pitch 2 is a mandatory rope solo due to drag. Lower off the belay 30’ and pendulum/tension left around the corner to a small beak seam. Climb this seam back up to under the roof. Traverse left under the roof on hooks and small gear to the far end where a crack in the roof takes you out. There is a retroed anchor in this pitch above the roof. Someone chop this. We dropped our retro kit and couldnt get back to it. Climb up the seam in the overhang above to a wider crack and mantle onto a ledge. There are anchors here for another route so keep on climbing. Scramble over the huge mud pile and cross the ledge to a new bolt on the ledge. Use this and the bolt above to make an anchor. This pitch is long!

Pitch 3 climb straight up off the belay using an ice axe to hook on cobbles and mud holes to gain beautiful seams above. Pass the first double bolt belay to a better belay at a poor stance above. A4

Pitch 4 continue up a perfect corner and cut underneath the roof. Then follow a mixture of thin gear and bolts that wanders right eventually leading to large runnels that will take you to a sloping shelf in an alcove with bolts to belay A3

Pitch 5 Creep right off the belay and around the corner out of sight. Free climb through dirty ledges to a bolt where you will begin a mixture of shenanigans climbing with some aid eventually landing on a small system of broken ledges beneath a roof. The FA party traversed the ledge left to a larger slot and climbed up that but I wound up going straight through the roof regardless I wound up in the same place above the slot. Nail up another seam and lasso a large horn out left. Pendulum under the horn and mantle on top of it. The anchors are up and left from there A3 5.10

Pitch 6 climb out the roof and into the groove getting clean placement and some nailing. Follow this till it peters out and a large ledge is on your right. Go left through various small left and right facing flakes to a bolted belay. A3

Pitch 7 climb the over hanging crack. At the end of the crack I entered a wide dirty left angling groove. This ended underneath a large blank roof. Traverse around right to build a belay with one bolt and pro.The FA party may have went up another crack to the right to gain this same location as I later saw fixed gear below the stance. It was dark and I must have missed this exit but the way I went was a fine dusty party regardless A2 5.8

Pitch 8 climb up to the only bolt on this pitch gain the ledge and  left to the perfect dihedral. Take this feller to the top. A1

Starts where the Sundevil Chimney starts

15 large beaks, 10 medium beaks, 5 small beaks, 4 lost arrows, 2 knife blades, a selection of angles or leeper z’s, a couple sawed off angles, triple set of cams from .2-2”, double cams 3-5”, handful of medium small nuts, I like tricams, a selection of hooks, we had ten 3/8” hangers and two 1/2” hangers and dozen or so rivet hanger, two specters, an ice axe, and lots of rope protectors. Most of the bolts looked decent for an older fisher route. Many don’t have hangers. Bring a couple extra 3/8” nuts (UNC 16) and washers for  Belays are safe. Protect your neck.