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Peak Mountain 3

North Face

FA Tipton-Hartman
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Description

This route seems to be a first. We saw bail tat on top of P1, which is the only pitch that seems very probable once you get up there. This route could go free at a hard grade and (with some cleaning of lichen) would make a proud, if short, free route in the area that is right next to the trail.

p1-5.9 climb the corner, passing loose blocks on the right to a stance with some old tat.

p2-5.11a climb up and right on cracks and around a corner to slightly under-protected 5.10, then left up seam corner to right traverse 5.11 a-b to a ledge. Belay with hand size pieces.

p3-5.11a-b climb seam to right which protects to crux (which doesn't protect very well), moving right to ledge with hard moves.

p-4 5.10 or 5.11, C1 head up good crack for 20 feet, move right on tiny gear to a corner and aid. Move past corner to ledge. This pitch is likely 5.12 and with cleaning would be overhanging fingers and face holds with good pro.

p-5 5.10 or C1 move up flaring corner to summit.

Walk off.

Location

See photo.

Protection

Doubles to 4 with lots of small stuff, especially stoppers.

Bring someone tough like my partner Jake to lead the scary pitch 3 (I bailed).