Dark Side of the Moon

After the initial moderate climbing, the hard climbing is relatively short but it will still get your blood pumping and lactic acid flowing (at least in us mortals). You haven't sent the route until you've mantled over the final roof and are standing level with the anchor - then you can claim the send, and jump off into the clean air! It's definitely worth the walk, and you'll likely have the area to yourself (don't miss the excellent 5.10 Muriel's Nose as well).

"Climb cracks for about 10 feet, then diagonal up left to follow the cracks that lead up right to the short, overhanging right-facing corner capped by a roof. Work up to the roof, then undercling out past it and up past the final overhang" - Purple Dick Williams book

Immediately left of Spinal Traction, at a crack on the face that forms the left wall of a huge right-facing corner. You should see the anchor biners hanging over the final lip from the ground.

PG. A single rack to #2. Two .5s were nice. The pro is somewhat strenuous to place in the cruxes, but it's all textbook bomber.

The anchor was replaced November 2016 - new nuts, new cord. Enjoy!