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Peak Mountain 3

Where The Wild Things Are

FA Royal Robbins and Chris Vandiver, 1978
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Climb the corner for 40', and continue around the left side of the first sloped roof, then go back right underneath the next roof. Climb straight up onto a fun, exposed, and runout slab with plenty of friction and a cool deep crack tunnel to the right. Top out on some blocks, and head left to the top of the descent gully.

There is no fixed anchors at the top. Building a gear anchor to bring up the second above the final slab is advisable. Then do a second 75' pitch to the left around easy terrain to the top of the gully.

The descent is from a cordelette around a lone tree at the top of the left side of the descent gully. Bring some webbing and/or quicklinks to beef up this anchor, as it is new as of 08/18/15. A single 60m rope rappel reaches the bottom of the gully. Then downclimb 20' of 4th class to reach the base of the route.

Location

15 feet right of

Free Box

, this route climbs the left-facing corner underneath sloping roofs.

Protection

A standard Ophir rack - doubles C4 0.3-2, one #3, nuts, and plenty of slings. Bring some TCUs for a potential gear anchor at the top of the route.