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Peak Mountain 3

Wanderer

FA unknown
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Description

This route was an endeavor to do. Climb the 5.8

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to the ledge and anchors. From here, you clip a small head in a seam and do a difficult move to a 1/4 buttonhead. From this stance, I did some delicate traversing to a seam where I could get some gear. Keep traversing until you can climb up to the slight ledge below a bulge and some more 1/4"ers. Some steep and strenuous climbing leads to small gear and easier terrain. Continue up until it is easy to traverse back left and to a ledge with a bolted anchor.

The rock is good, but the wandering nature of the climb makes it a route finding adventure.

Location

This route is above

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, 5.8, and right of

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, 5.11. Look for the old bolts on the face.

Protection

Slings! Lots of slings or you will be slayed by the rope drag. (2) #3s for the first part of the

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, 5.8. A set of C3s, nuts, and a few fingers to small hands.