Bits and Pieces

This route is destined to become a Zion classic. During the first ascent the route was littered with "bits and pieces" of airplane left over from a crash that occurred sometime in the 1970's.

P1

(5.8, 100') Climb the obvious hand crack in a small right-facing corner. Belay at the obvious ledge where the crack ends.

P2

(4th class, 150') Step down and left crossing a chimney. After gaining a bushy ledge traverse up and left aiming for the obvious chimney with a tree at it's top. Next, head right up loose and bushy ledges to a ledge at the base of the obvious crack on the main wall.

P3

(5.10c, 120') Climb the obvious crack in the main wall. There is currently a dead tree about 10 feet up the crack. Start with thin hands which quickly becomes wider. This leads to a spectacular thin hands crack in the left-hand wall. Next, you'll follow a large flake until a bolt appears out left. Clip the bolt and head left to a good ledge and a 2-bolt anchor.

P4

(5.8, 60') Down climb to a ledge at the base of the chimney. Climb up using the thin crack on the left until you reach the high point of the ledge in the corner.

P5

(5.11a, 100') Climb the wide crack above (5.8) to the obvious roof. Climb out the roof, finding a bolt at the far end. Continue up the crack above to a 2-bolt semi-hanging belay.

P6

(5.9+, 130') Continue up the crack into a short chimney capped by a roof. After turning the roof, follow an easy ramp out right to a huge ledge and belay.

P7

(5.5, 50') Climb up easy terrain, heading back left towards the big corner. Belay on the ledge at the base of the chimney. There are bolts at the "front" of this ledge; the bolts are part of the rap route.

P8

(5.11a/b, 120') Stem your way up the chimney to the hand crack on the left hand wall. Use the hand crack to gain the chimney above. Continue up the chimney/face climbing until you reach a second chimney. Tunnel up through until you pop out on a big ledge with a 2-bolt anchor.

P9

(5.8, 100') Climb a clean finger/layback flake on the right. From the end of the flake head right up a flared, lower-angle wide crack to a ledge with a 2 bolt anchor.

P10

(5.9, 100') From the anchor head right approximately 30ft to a small prow in the bulge. After surmounting the bulge follow the path of least resistance, with a bit of zig-zagging, to the summit. Belay from one of several trees.

One set nuts, no RPs

One set Aliens, green-red

Two sets Camalots #.75-#3

One #4 camalot

One optional larger cam