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Peak Mountain 3

Chimney Route

FA BK June 2, 2018
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

P1- Climb the wide crack/chimney that is the split between Wet Dream Tower and Dream Catcher.  Climb some soft sandy rock to a two bolt anchor on the left. 80'. 5.9

P1.5- Move anchor to top of the notch between Cream Dream and Dream Catcher. 40' 3rd class

P2- From the top of the notch climb the chimney using the crack on Dream Catcher for protection(fingers to hand sized gear). Place some gear and commit to Cream Dream Tower. A few slab moves get you to a two bolt anchor w/ chain. 80' 5.8.

P3- Traverse right across the slab for a few feet and climb a thin crack using thin cams and pins to a bolt.  Mantel off the bolt and climb up the slab to three more bolts. Two bolt anchor w/ chain. 60' 5.7 A2.

Descent-

Rappel the route.

Location

The Chimney Route starts on the north side and climbs the wide crack/chimney that is the split between Wet Dream Tower and Dream Catcher.

Protection

Camalots-

Doubles .2-3

Single 4,5,6

1 set of stoppers

Offset aliens

A few angles, arrows, knife blades

Single 70m rope


Routes in Cream Dream Tower


  1. 1
    Chimney Route
    5.9
    Trad · Aid