- Edit (TBD)
Description
Stick clip the first bolt below the ramp, then scramble up the corner and ramp past the start of Full Penetration/ Sinister Dane and around the corner to a big undercling. Get tall or prehang the second draw and clip. Make a huge move up to a pinch, or match the terrible sloper and go to the pinch. A couple of crimps lead up and to the right and a good hold to clip the 3rd bolt from. Move up and left to a jug, then a long move to and off of a crimpy right handed sidepull gets you to more right facing jugs. From here on the climbing is about 5.10 to 5.11- and very fun.
If you have to match the sloper this could be a very difficult tick.Great line and good rock the only flaw is that it is quite cruxy at the start which may not be a bad thing in some peoples minds.
Location
Climbs in and around the black streak at the left margin of the cave.
Protection
7 bolts and anchors
Routes in Filet de Papillon Wall (aka Dirt Wall)
- 3Almost Blue5.12cSport