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Peak Mountain 3

Southwest Buttress

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Description

(Originally grade 5.6, we found that to be a serious sandbag, granted, its alpine climbing so maybe you could keep it 5.6 by taking the absolute easiest path to the summit.)

3 pitches of technical climbing gets you to a very large ledge where you'll be directly above the striking "fin" of the SW buttress.

Scramble about 200 feet nearly to a large notch (with a 50 foot pinnacle on the right)

Pick the most inspiring line to the summit, three more pitches of better rock takes you to the summit.

Descent: easy hiking takes you to the south bowl, find the easiest 3rd / 4th class path to the snowfield. from the bottom of the snowfield, follow the talus to the lake. From there you'll be able to see the meadow that you originally hiked in on.

Location

Starts on Climbers right of the SW buttress (see photo)

begin by scrambling several hundred feet up the low angle ramp

Protection

alpine rack (what is an alpine rack???) BD 0.3 - #3 (probably doubles of your favorite sizes), most of the pitches are long so you'll want as many pieces as you need to be comfortable.


Routes in Musembeah Peak


  1. 2
    Southwest Buttress
    5.9
    Alpine · Trad