Borderline

Just to the right of Black Magic a broken face and crack system that ascends the right edge of the Lotta Balls wall. This route is two pitches long and joins up with Black Magic at the top of the 2nd pitch.

Pitch 1: Begin on the ground under the boulder right of Black Magic. Make one reachy move to gain the face to the right of the corner. Follow this broken face up and through a roof, eventually arriving at a stance where lots of gear options present themselves. 5.8, 150' Pitch 2: Continue up the cracks above, moving through one somewhat blankish section with good pro, then stepping right to the arete, moving through a small bulge. From here, trend up and left, aiming for the top of Black Magic's second pitch. Pitches 3&4: Finish as per Black Magic.

Pro for this route should include a lot of small stuff- wires, Aliens, a Loweball or two. The biggest gear available is a #2 or #3 Camalot.