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Peak Mountain 3

Flesh and Blood

FA Louie Anderson, 2006
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

This route is an incredible and long moderate route, even by quarry standards. The route has two distinct cruxes, one at the bottom and one at the top, separated by sixty or so feet of fun climbing on good holds in stellar position. The climb starts on small holds under a bulge. Traverse right and up, then around the bulge to jugs. Continue over a series of ledges on good holds while the climb edges closer to the left-hand arete. After a nice rest on a small ledge 2/3's the way up, you pull a move up to a large slanting ledge and throw for a jug in the middle. Traverse right under the looming roof and prepare to surmount it up and left. A strenuous sequence here rewards you with the headwall and big holds to the anchors at the top of the cliff.

Location

This is the first route in the Left of the Roof Sector. It's just around the corner from Metro. It starts directly in front of a bench which sits in front of a medium sized boulder. Currently the rating 11b is written on the wall at the bottom of the route.

Protection

16 bolts to two-bolt anchor/rap. 70m rope recommended. You can climb this route with a 60m rope, but tie a knot on the belay-end when lowering and be very careful.