The Original Route

Pitch 1: 5.8 - 130'.  This pitch is the same as the 1st pitch on Coffee Pot Rock's Original Route. It is on the North side of the formation.  Climb the low angle chimney to the narrow notch between Coffee Pot Rock and Coffee Pot II (South Chief). OW gear is not needed after this pitch.

Pitch 2: 5.6 - 30' - Jump across!  Climb up the slab for 20' until you're standing on the protruding lighter band of sandstone.  Jump across to the ledge on Coffee Pot II.

Pitch 3: 5.11 - 25' - Traverse the bolted handrail from muffins to dimples and pull around onto a nice South face ledge. This pitch can be french freed if you're not into dimples.

Pitch 4: 5.7  - 50' - Continue straight up the slab and hang a left at the first bolt. Traverse to the obvious block and then up another 30' to the huge ledge. Gear belay - medium cams. Note - you can continue directly up after the first bolt but the rock quality deteriorates

Pitch 5: 5.0 - 120' - Traverse left along the ledge roughly 80' to the obvious chimney.  Wiggle up the chimney to the broad summit and Pine tree belay. Scramble to the top!

Descent: Rap 40' off of a slung bush on the South side of the summit back to the 4th pitch belay. Rap 80' off of two bolts down to the notch atop pitch 1. Rap 90' down to two bolts on a ledge part way up pitch 1.  Rap 40' to your packs.

The route starts on the North side of the Coffee Pot Rock formation.  Look for the obvious chimney that leads to the notch between Coffee Pot Rock and Coffee Pot II (South Chief). Same 1st pitch as the Original Route on Coffee Pot Rock.

From the Soldiers Pass TH hike 0.1mi on the dirt road to the Tea Pot trail.  Go left on the Tea Pot trail and up about 15 minutes to some boulders with an old dead tree in their midst.  Go right on a more faint trail for a few minutes to a broad ridge with relatively sparse vegetation. Roughly follow this ridge taking the path of least resistance to the base of the chimney. About  45 minutes from car.

Single set of cams from fingers to OW. Assorted quickdraws, slings, etc. 1 rope All belays are bolted except the 4th If it's been a few years since 2020 bring 10-15 feet of tat to reinforce the webbing on the first rap.