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Peak Mountain 3

Open project: "Eat Nails, Shit Chain"

FA Equipped JDM 2020
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

At the last bolt of The Hammer, bust left, leaving the ample honeycomb jugs for relentless hard climbing out the high headwall. After the featured steeps of the hammer, climbs a sustained 20-30 degree panel, lessening to vert for the last two bolts. Likely a near full-reset rest (still in overhanging terrain though) before leaving The Hammer no matter how you slice it, but the intention was to clip the final bolt and stay in those jugs, rather than messing with the anchor up and right.Grade is a total guess. Havent put any work in, but it seems like 4-5 bolts of high end bouldering on thin pockets giving way to patina crimps, with just enough holds to definitely go. While a few isolated holds are decent enough to chalk the other hand for a bit, there are never two good, or matchable holds in close proximity so it seems like 15-20 moves of uninterrupted power-endurance will be in order. It is currently kindof sharp. I would evaluate the rock quality as "high, for the Willamette valley". If you're working it, feel free to tweak things like bolt position. all the holes were overdrilled and the studs can easily be pounded in and patched.

Location

Begin up the Hammer and bust left at the last bolt.

Protection

something like 11 bolts, stainess 3/8 wedges. They seem adequate for the harder stone in the first 40 feet, and good for now up the rest of the route,, but in the future they could be replaced with glueins on the more porous rock of the headwall(better rock quality for climbing up there, but doesn't accept wedges well.)


Routes in The Anvil


  1. 1
    Open project: "Eat Nails, Shit Chain"
    5.14-
    Sport