Punch In The Nose

P1: From the table-top ledge, head pretty much straight up towards the roof to the left of the blue line in the below photo. Set a belay somewhere below the roof. 5.4, ~70 feet? [If you set the belay above the roof, there is some risk of a gear belay set around a detached block and a stance within striking distance of a fall from the crux.]

Show's the approach gully plus 1st, 3rd, 4th, and 5th gear anchors as we set them. For someone leading at the grade, recommend setting the 2nd belay somewhere before the horizontal blue line; otherwise, there is some risk of a belay on a crummy gear anchor and stance within striking distance of a fall from the crux.

P2: Bypass the roof on its right. Stand on detached block above the roof and ponder the crux. A move or two sees the leader to easier terrain including face / slab climbing past two or three horizontal cracks. Set the belay on a large horizontal crack 5 or 10 feet to the right of a bunch of stick bushes of about a coffin-sized volume. 5.8? ~70 feet? Note: there used to be a good crimper up above for the crux move; it broke off; instead, think "bear hug".

P3: Head up vertical cracks until one can traverse right on a large horizontal crack (3 or 4 inch) for about 8 feet. Face climb up on runout terrain for about 25 feet to a large and flat belay platform with bomber chockstone way at the back. 5.5, ~70 feet?

P3: Traverse right and later up for about 70 feet into a huge cleft or alcove with a substantial roof system. One can use one or two bolts of Cross-trainer along the way. Belay on a very comfortable perch immediately up and right of the alcove - 4 inch and 2 inch gear for anchor. 5.4, unsure pitch length.

P4: Very short - traverse right along a very large crack / ledge for about 30 feet and then up again about as much to a boulder field and belay.

We linked P3 and P4 using a 70 meter rope. Not sure whether a 60 meter rope would make it.

Locate the gully in the photo and scramble up about 100 feet. A belay anchor can be set up on a table-top ledge a little to the right.

Standard rack up to 5 inches. No fixed belay anchors (nor are any needed). Medium sized Trango Ball Nutz and/or BD C3 will protect the crux.