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Peak Mountain 3

Hour Glass Crack

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Description

Not as clean and sweet as Black Jack Crack(5.10d) or even Queen of Spades (5.12a) but perhaps a good warm up lead or highball V0.

Climb the broken rock to the right of Black Jack Crack past many good holds and a few solid placements to the top of the boulder. The crux is the last move and the mantel so place a good piece and fire it.

Build a belay from gear at the top, then toprope Black Jack Crack cause everyone knows you wouldn't be on this boulder if it weren't for that crack.

Location

Right of the Black Jack Crack.

Protection

Regular rack. nuts work well at the top.