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MapDescription
Make a strange 1st move and crimp your way to a hand jam rest. make another equally hard deadpoint/dyno then setup for the crux, work out left on undercling deadpoint for a side pull and then make tenuous moves up the crimpy flake with the pump clock ticking. Make some final moves that go at 10+/11- but with pump feel like 5.13, grab the clipping jug way up right and clip those anchors...man that climb was hard.
The crux of this climb is very insecure and involves traversing on bad underclings with bad feet then deadpointing without letting your feet slip.
Location
2nd bolted climb right of Under the Milky Way (arete)
Protection
6 bolts to anchors
Routes in The Long Wall
- 15Flirting with E5.11dSport