- Edit (TBD)
Description
A nerve-wracking, thin, technical, and delicate trip from the anchors to the first bolt leads to some hard, painful pulling on tiny edges with desperately suspect feet up to a hidden clipping jug for the second bolt. Easier terrain through another bolt and then another head-scratching bit past the fourth and last bolt.
After the last bolt head a bit right into the obvious crack which protects well with medium to large nuts and cams (an orange metolius protected well the opening moves to get established up in the crack). Somewhat burly liebacking with less-than-stellar feet for 30 feet or so and then some 15-20 feet of easier but unprotected climbing to the chains.
Location
Climb the first pitch of
Territory of the Mad
and end at the chains rather than at the base of the arch.
From the chains head more-or-less straight up.
Protection
4 bolts and a single set of nuts and cams from finger- to fist-sized. Chain anchors at bottom and top.
Routes in Madness Buttress
- 3Question of Insanity5.10aTrad