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Peak Mountain 3

Too Much Lip

FA James Egan (2019)
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

This is a compression line on the far right arete of the boulder when approaching it. It starts behind a juniper tree on a great double undercling start and feet as low as you can put them. It goes straight up to a good, left-facing sidepull for the left hand then surfs out right immediately to a dogbone pinch on the southeast face, and then begins the compression portion. It then follows the arete with the left hand, using heel hooks out left and a few holds on the southeast face for the right hand, culminating in a crux revolving around a rad loaf pinch for the left hand and a slippery undercling pinch on a spike for the right hand.

It kind of climbs similar to Tomahawk at Lincoln Lake where no move is V9 or V10, but the culmination of difficult moves without a rest start to add up, and it doesn't let up until you pull over the lip with a cool finishing jug at the end of the left-to- rightward traverse.

With great movement and friendly holds, it climbs better even than it looks.

Location

Double undercling sit start on the far right side of the boulder, and compress the arete with a hand on either side of it for most of the climb.

This is not to be confused with the same start that then goes straight up on crimps called "Prowling", V8, put up by Greg Johnson, Matt Samet, and friends.

Protection

2-3 pads should do it.


Routes in Manifest Destiny Boulder


  1. 2
    Too Much Lip
    V9-10
    Bouldering