- Edit (TBD)
Description
Pitch 1. Think of this as more of an approach pitch, 5.6. The bolts seem to be there more to keep the rope out of cactus as the likelihood of falling is small. This will be a rope stretcher for a 60m, but it will get the job done. Climb up the slab start to a tree, go right ,and follow the bolt line avoiding shrubs in the gully to the bottom of pitch 2. Remember this is an approach to the goods, you won't be let down.
Pitch 2. This is one of the finest pitches on this side of Sunday Wall and is very highly recommended. Start up the triple cracks working your way right and up following the bolt line. You then hit the first crux move, go right or go left to pull the crux. It's just about choosing your flavor. Continue to work your way up till you hit a large, slabby, blank-looking dish. Work your way into and up the dish finding feet and hands that are just good enough.
Pitch 3. This is also a great pitch with mostly 5.10- 5.9+ climbing with a very obvious crux move transitioning out of the crack and back onto the face. The move seems improbable, but relax, find the foot out left, and commit, then it's back to moderate climbing following the bolt line to the top. The pitch starts going up and right. You can't see the first bolt at the belay as it's around the right side, but it's right where you'll need it.
Descent- *you will need two 60s to rap this route. One 70m won't cut it.
Rap 1. Rap from the top of pitch three two the top of pitch two, a single 70m can rap this, I don't recommend trying to double rope rap to the top of pitch one. Your rope will get stuck.
Rap 2. Double rope rap from the top of pitch 2 to the top of pitch 1.
Rap 3. Double rope rap from the top of pitch 1 to the ground. Do your best to avoid the cactus at the bottom. You will end up near Beyer's routes
one
,
two
,
three
, and
four
.
I was told that this route was named Colonel Rhombus. If someone has other info, just let me know, and I'll fix it.
Location
This starts up an obvious slab about 20 feet left of "
Beyer 4
." So just follow the directions to Beyer's Wall, find
Beyer 4
, and walk left till you see the newer looking bolts up an easy looking slab. The slab will have some reddish-brown lichen on it that makes it stand out from the walls left and right of it.
Protection
Singles BD #0.3 through #3 and 16 quickdraws.