- Edit (TBD)
Description
5.10b rating is based on majority of route after first bolt which can be clipped from higher ground on a boulder.
Hard to resist this one. Colorful, slightly overhanging rock with abundant features. It's as fun as it looks! You can get all kinds of great moves in here--undercling, knuckle lock, deadpoint, lie back, sidepull, heel hook, cross-over, knee bar, even a hand jam--whatever feels right. And most of this route is really 5.10-, quite similar to Stretch Rack 10b at the Torture Chamber.
Many unassuming climbers have put on their harness, tied in, and chalked up just to be surprised by the more difficult 11+ moves preceding the 1st bolt. Burly crux here, overhanging with a few less than ideal holds. Definitely powerful but also a puzzle challenge for sure! Reachy; arguably a height dependent crux. Chalk marks lead Right, but you could also go Left here--choose your adventure.
The fall at the crux before the first bolt is at the ground for the first few moves but becomes sketchier as you climb higher, especially if you go Right over boulders. Consider standing on higher ground where you can easily clip the 1st bolt to provide protection for the first few moves... unless that's against your beliefs.
Moves after the 1st bolt can be tricky, moving through a somewhat slopy crack and knobs to the first real jug and clip the 2nd bolt.
From here out this climb is more forgiving. Some really rad hollow features from erosion, deep enough that you could shove a backpack in there! If you find a few other hidden jugs it's pretty much exciting, safe, sustained 5.9+ from here out.
There is a little bit of a run out as you go Left to the big hollow handlebar, but if you find the right holds you should have peace of mind.
Finish at an open cold shut and a hanger for the anchor. Lower off.
Location
As you approach the bottom of the East Gully look for fun, featured rock on the Right side. You'll soon see the bolts of this route running up the wall before the juggy section comes to an end and you meet up with the main climbing area approach trail.
Protection
5 bolts to an open cold shut and a hanger for the anchor.
Routes in East Gully, Playground Rock, & The Prize Cliff
- 4Untitled5.11-Sport