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Peak Mountain 3

Middle Earth

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Description

"Middle Earth" begins downhill (left) of "Agua Negro" near the large bush/tree the corridor. Start climbing just right of and below a huge coarse grained block or inclusion. Two bolts lead past the inclusion to a lower angled apron. Continue up as the wall steepens to a headwall below a large depression, clip the bolt, and climb into the depression. Move left from the depression around the left side of a very large block to a Fixe ring anchor with two bolts. A second pitch climbs the steep upper headwall on pockets and knobs past five more bolts. While it is possible to link the climb as one long pitch it maybe necessary to use long runners down low or back clean to reduce rope drag. As of July 2014 there are anchors equipped in order to rappel the route in two rappels with a 60 meter rope.

Location

This route is on the east wall of the corridor and originates near the large bush, below a huge light colored cobble, 40 feet left (north) of "Aqua Negro."

Protection

P1 - 9 bolts & 2-bolt anchor with chain, P2 - 5 bolts, shares an anchor with "Tethys," 3 bolts with chains.