Honeymoon

This was the first route to be established on the Bride and is still a fairly serious undertaking today. Like Sam says on the Little Valley page, the rock here is very soft for wingate and climbs more like entrada. Expect a little spice.

PItch 1 - This pitch begins with a stud-ladder about 100 feet to the left (when viewed from the road) of the Bride in a short, shallow, right facing dihedral. Above the stud-ladder this pitch follows a left facing dihedral and eventually climbs a gully to access the bench behind the Bride. (C1, 5.7)

Pitch 2 - From the top of the first pitch, scramble along the bench to the opposite side of the Bride and climb a short bit of unprotected 5.6 to reach the saddle directly behind the Bride. (5.6 R)

Pitch 3 - This is the business. From the saddle, traverse right to a crack. Follow this crack until it ends and continue upward on rivets and pitons with the occasional gear placement. The first ascent party climbed this in two pitches but the midpoint anchor is 4 empty holes and after I filled them all and equalized the whole thing, I still didn't feel comfortable letting Matt jug on it.

I chose to continue and suffered horrendous rope drag near the top for not using enough runners low on the pitch. This pitch corkscrews around the tower counter-clock wise so manage your rope accordingly. There are some mandatory free moves at the top. (5.6, A2)

Rappel the Honeymoon Chimney route on big, new bolts courtesy of Sam and the ASCA.

Two sets of cams up to #3Camalot

Extra green Alien and yellow Alien

A selection of pitons that's heavy in 3/4" to 1-1/4" angles (sawed off angles very helpful)

1 pink and 1 red tri-cam

Tie-offs, rivet hangers