- Edit (TBD)
Choss For Your Kitten Mittens
Description
This is a stellar adventure route with some loose sections in the middle. Follow a splitter crack system through bulges and a spectacular triple roof crux. Be sure to bring your wide gear and trad anchor skills. There are no bolts on the route. It is a bit sandy, but after a few more ascents, it could be a real classic!
Pitch 1 - start up the ever steepening hand crack the widens from #1 to #3 Camalot. Pull through a couple bulges and a tricky pod section with loose rock. Set up gear belay on sloping ledge at base of gully. 5.10-, 150 feet.
Pitch 2 - carefully jam and stem up loose gully to a large terrace. It is possible to set up an intermediate belay here. Continue up short bombay crack leading to triple roofs. The middle one is wide and takes old #4 or new #5 Camalots. Pull through final roof past chockstone and continue up splitter #3 hand crack. Mantle up to a ledge and climb short chimney section to rim. Belay on trees. 5.10, 180 feet.
Location
Start at base of lichen-covered, left-facing corner on right side of buttress. Hopefully there will be sporting a plaque soon?
Descent - walk south off the rim (climber's right) and eventually traverse back under the cliff to the start.
Protection
Doubles from #0.5 to #5 Camalot with extra hand-sized pieces and possibly another #5.
Routes in Slickrock Buttress
- 1Choss For Your Kitten Mittens5.10Trad