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Peak Mountain 3

Squeeze-n-Tease

FA Rick Cashner and Angi Morales (Sept '77)
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Scuz Ball

,

Squeeze-n-Tease

,

L.D. Getaway

, and

Andy Devine

are located (in that order, from left to right) on an unnamed cliff a couple hundred feet uphill and west of the main Little Wing formation. All of these routes are of mediocre quality, usually featuring some good climbing mixed with some not-so-good climbing. If you want a cliff with sunny moderates and zero crowds, this isn't a bad choice. There are rap slings on a tree above

Andy Devine

, which is the easiest way to descend.


Some 3rd class scrambling is required to reach the slabby ledge below this route. Start up the low angle corner with a hand crack to reach the steeper headwall. The fist crack above is blocked by a flake protruding from the right. Getting around this is the crux. Be gentle with the flake. From here it's a 5.6 offwidth to the top. It is also possible to escape right if you don't have a big cam to protect the offwidth.

Protection

Pro to 6"