We're giving this page a facelift!
Visit the previous versionto make edits.
Peak Mountain 3

The Black Wonton

FA Chris Magness, Mike Sturgeon 5/12
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

A wild little roof problem. Short and pumpy. Start left of Bag of Tricks and right of The Easy Way on a moderate slab. Look for a short roof crack 15' off the ground.

Climb the moderate but unprotected slab to the roof crack. Place a somewhat blind cam and make a committing move into the roof. Make a big move to some hidden jugs and a pumpy stance to place gear in a left angling horizontal finger crack (crux). Follow the horizontal left to an unlikely jug. Trend up and left following cracks across easier terrain to a two bolt anchor on top of The Easy Way.

Location

The Lower Tier, between The Easy Way and Bag of tricks.

Protection

Cams. .4-2, crux takes .4 and .5. Optional 3.5 in a pod turning the roof.