Simple Twist of Fay

There were plenty of twists and turns along the way to bringing this route to life, so with apologies to Darren Mabe for repurposing his route name (his Twist of Fate being a classic of Northern Arizona), Simple Twist of Fay is just too good to pass up. I learned many lessons while working on this line—some climbing lessons, some life lessons. Blame it all upon a simple twist of Fay.P2 and P4 are both 4 stars. P1, P3, and P5 are more like 3 stars. This route would be 4 stars on any other wall in Sedona, but 3 seems appropriate for Fay.P1 (5.9, 60'): Climb the thin crack between the starts of Chaos (Redacted) and Leaving Las Vegas to a two-bolt anchor below the flare. Easily linked into P2. 2x Blue Metolius, 0.3 Camalot.P2 (5.11d, 90'): Climb past bolts (strenuous) to establish in the flare. Use your imagination, placing much small pro until you're back in the bolts. One more gear placement as you turn the lip (any finger size will do) leads to a few more bolts to the big ledge. Many pieces from 000 C3 to 0.2 Camalot, 1x 0.4 or 0.5 Camalot, Quickdraws.P3 (5.11, 70'): Move the belay to the right side of the ledge (single bolt backed up w/ optional small cam). Either slap your way straight up the bolts (5.11) or climb in the chossier system to the right (5.10). Pass a big ledge, and continue up on bolts and gear to a small, exposed stance beneath a bulge. 1x Blue Metolius to #1 Camalot, Slings & Quickdraws.P4 (5.11, 110'): Climb up past a couple flakes, move right around the arete, ticktack up easier terrain until an exposed step back left onto the other side of the arete, climb steep jugs until a wild and exposed traverse back right around the arete, then straight up for another 50 feet or so of tenuous arete climbing to anchor on a ledge with a tree. 12-13x Quickdraws.P5 (5.10+, 50'): Climb up the arete to the top of the wall. 4-5x Quickdraws, 1x 0.4 or 0.5 Camalot.Descent: Short rap to top of P4. LONG rap to top of P3 (full 35m; knot your ends). Short rap to top of P2. Short rap to top of P1 of Chaos. Short rap to ledge. Can also rap Chaos (4 raps) if nobody on that line

Between Chaos and Leaving Las Vegas, climbing the big v-slot to a steep arete.

12-13x Quickdraws & Slings2x 000, 00 C3's, 3x 0 C3's, 2x #1 C3's (or equivalent sizes - C3's not specifically necessary)1x 0.3 to #1 Camalot70m rope